Here are the details for the green silk gown made for Lochac coronation July 2007. This is based on the portrait of Claudia de Beaune, c. 1560 by someone of the School of Clouet.
The main fabric is green and black shot silk taffeta – that is completely flat silk, with no slubs like you get with dupion silk. It has marvellous lustre and is both light-weight and crisp. As I wanted to keep it light so that it could be worn in summer it is lined with black lining taffeta. In retrospect this is possibly a little too light – a satin may have been better, at least for the skirt.
The skirt has a short train: about 50 cm lays on the ground but it sort of floats when I walk much like those seen in the etching. The gown is trimmed with approximately 35m of 9mm wide white velvet ribbon in bands of three parallel stripes, mimicking the bands of white fur on the original.
Each sleeve is puffed and stuffed, has five bands encasing the puff and has a double off-set row of scalloping, also edged with the white ribbon.
The bodice is stiffened only with a layer of canvas and a layer of fine tailor’s felt – it is worn over a corset. It laces at the side-back.
Sleeves & Forepart
The sleeves are based on those worn by Elizabeth de Valois in 1565.
The outer cloth is silk brocade in cream and gold/champagne, this is slashed and each slash edged with cream cord held together with gold coloured aglets. A layer of white silk satin shows through the slashes and the whole sleeve is also padded and lined.
A forepart of the same brocade but not slashed completes the outfit.